REVIEW: Steak, seduction, and sweet endings at Besos

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Tucked into the charming Woods Shopping Centre along Jan Smuts Avenue in Craighall Park — Randburg, Besos is the kind of restaurant that feels both vibrant and relaxed — a perfect setting for a long, lingering meal. We’ve heard murmurs about their hearty meals and indulgent desserts, so naturally, we made a reservation to see for ourselves if Besos could live up to its growing reputation among Joburg foodies and casual diners alike.

The restaurant’s interior is inviting without feeling overworked; a mix of modern and comfort touches. Think wooden tables, soft lighting, and just enough greenery to make the space feel fresh and warm. The staff welcomed us with genuine smiles, and before we could properly admire the setting, we were already being walked through their specials of the day. It was the sort of attentive yet unfussy service that immediately puts you at ease.

Starting with the salt and pepper crusted lamb riblets was a decision we did not regret. They arrived looking almost too good to disturb — crispy on the edges and generously seasoned. Each bite was a perfect harmony of savoury and peppery notes, with the lamb tender enough to fall apart without much coaxing. There was a lovely smokiness that lingered after each mouthful, the sort of flavour that makes you reach for another piece before you’ve even finished chewing the last.

Alongside the riblets, we also ordered the chicken livers, which came bathed in a rich peri-peri sauce. The heat was beautifully balanced, offering a warming kick rather than an overwhelming burn. Spoonfuls of livers on crusty bread, mopped through the vibrant, slightly tangy sauce, set the tone for what would become a meal full of bold, confident flavours.

Then came the tomahawk steak, an absolute showstopper. Served in a cast-iron casserole dish, nestled in a sizzling bath of garlic and herbs, it was as much a sensory experience as it was a meal. The aromas were intoxicating; the sort of mouthwatering garlic and herb perfume that fills the air and has neighbouring tables sneaking glances of envy. Cutting into the steak revealed perfectly cooked flesh, juicy and flavourful, with the herbs and garlic gently infusing the meat without overpowering its natural character. It was a dish designed for sharing, though we found ourselves reluctant to part with even a single forkful.

We could smell the T-bone before we saw it. When it arrived, resting grandly next to a simple yet refreshing village salad, it looked every bit the centrepiece it deserved to be. Perfectly charred on the outside with a succulent, pink middle, the steak was generously seasoned and cooked with an obvious respect for the quality of the meat itself. There was a rustic honesty to the dish, letting the beef shine without unnecessary embellishment. The village salad, with its mix of ripe tomatoes, cucumber, red onion, and olives, offered a crisp, refreshing counterbalance to the richness of the meat.

By the time desserts were mentioned, we were comfortably full but not foolish enough to decline. The moist chocolate cake with Lindt sauce was exactly as decadent as it sounds. Rich without being heavy, the cake offered a deep cocoa flavour that was beautifully enhanced by the glossy Lindt chocolate sauce drizzled generously around the cake. A fresh strawberry added a burst of tartness, while a scoop of creamy vanilla ice-cream melted enticingly into the warm chocolate puddle, tying everything together in a way that made every bite pure bliss.

Just when we thought the evening couldn’t get any better, the milky croissant crumble arrived at our table. This dish felt like a warm hug in edible form. Layers of buttered bread, lightly crisped on the edges yet pillowy-soft within, had been generously soaked in Besos’s signature condensed milk sauce. The sweetness was perfectly pitched — luscious but never cloying. Topped with a scoop of ice-cream that slowly melted into the nooks and crannies of the crumble, it was comforting, nostalgic, and absolutely irresistible.

Throughout the evening, what stood out beyond the food itself was the evident care and thought behind every detail at Besos. The atmosphere was lively but never noisy, the service attentive without being intrusive, and the food hearty yet refined in its own unfussy way. It’s a place that welcomes you whether you’re a seasoned foodie chasing bold flavours or a casual diner simply looking for a great meal in good company.

Besos manages to strike that delicate balance between polished execution and homely comfort, the kind of place that feels special but never pretentious. Every dish we tried showcased a deep understanding of flavour, a commitment to quality, and a clear sense of generosity — not just in portion sizes, but in spirit. Whether you find yourself drawn by the promise of flame-grilled steaks, silky peri-peri sauces, or the irresistible pull of decadent desserts, Besos is the kind of restaurant that rewards curiosity and guarantees satisfaction.