Inside Delaire Graff: Marble, art and winelands opulence

Share

Luxury travel in the Cape Winelands has moved towards estates that hold an entire day within one boundary: breakfast on a private terrace, a tasting in the cellar, dinner at a marble sommelier bar, an hour among the paintings. The Michelin Guide’s Keys assess architecture, design, service and personality together, and that breadth suits such places. In its 2026 selection the guide gave three Keys to Delaire Graff Lodges & Spa, the highest tier it awards hotels.

Delaire Graff Estate sits high on the Helshoogte Pass, where the Banhoek Valley drops away in terraces of vines towards the Simonsberg. The diamantaire Laurence Graff first visited in 2003, watched a pair of blue cranes cross the sky, and decided to buy. The estate opened in 2009. Stellenbosch is a short drive away, Franschhoek is within easy reach, and Cape Town International Airport is about fifty minutes distant.

Guests stay in individual lodges, each with a private pool. The Garden, Luxury and Superior Lodges run from 70 to 76 square metres with one bedroom. The two Presidential Lodges have two bedrooms across 130 square metres, one facing Table Mountain and the other the Simonsberg. The Owner’s Villa occupies 660 square metres over two levels, with four bedrooms, an infinity pool and a private chef.

The Winery Building, among the first projects completed at opening, has been refurbished by David Collins Studio, which has worked with the estate since its early years. Simon Rawlings, the studio’s chief creative officer, led the work with design director Roslyn Keet. Full-height timber doors with a starburst of metal studwork open onto the peach pip floor, a nod to Cape Dutch craftsmanship that has been kept.

In the Delaire Graff Restaurant, serpentine banquettes in orange leather curve past tiger’s eye marble, dark oak floors and vellum-toned plaster. A marble sommelier bar anchors one end, with an ebonised herringbone wine display behind it, and a marble fireplace stands at the other. The Wine Tasting Lounge is darker: amethyst upholstery against black marble, and a fireplace of gold-veined Sahara Noir beneath Kenny Scharf’s Junganity. Two coffee tables carry beadwork inlays in the Maasai manner, which one artisan took nine months to complete. The Michelin Guide puts Laurence Graff’s collection at about 400 works, and the restaurant is the backdrop for his contemporary African pieces.

Tastings in the lounge are tutored. Winemaker Morné Vrey and viticulturist Kallie Fernhout oversee the range, which includes the Laurence Graff Reserve, and the vineyards sit directly below the terraces.

Head chef Clinton Jacobs cooks at the Delaire Graff Restaurant from traditional South African ingredients and techniques, with biodynamic farming and sustainably minded producers behind the menu. The 2026 JHP Gourmet Guide awarded it one plate. At Hōseki, head chef Virgil Kahn runs a Japanese kitchen that earned two plates in the same guide. Dinner is an eight-course omakase and lunch a four-course chef’s selection, both offered with wines chosen by the sommelier. The bluefin and yellowfin tuna are sustainably sourced, and most fresh produce comes from the estate’s own garden and greenhouse. Lorenzo’s serves Italian dishes: burrata caprese, wood-fired pizza with fresh truffle, and handmade tortellini of basil and ricotta.

Few estates carry a jeweller’s name over a table. Hōseki means jewel, a reference to Graff, whose boutique stands on the estate alongside 100% Capri. A guest can check in, eat at three kitchens, taste in the lounge, book the spa and walk the sculpture gardens without leaving the property, and the Keys reward that completeness. Chief executive Jacolien de Villiers describes the refurbishment as one stage in a continuous evolution since 2009, intended for day visitors and lodge guests alike. In a region where Stellenbosch and Franschhoek compete on the quality of their tables, an address that holds every element to one standard is a considered answer to what affluent travellers now ask of a stay.

In the Winery Building the peach pip floor has stayed, and the marble and leather arrived around it.