Ukkō is the kind of restaurant that immediately feels like a welcome pause from the city’s usual rhythm. Part of the newly reimagined Winifred Mandela Precinct, this Mediterranean-inspired spot offers a dining experience that’s as stylish as it is satisfying. And in a suburb like Bryanston, where the lines between work and leisure often blur, Ukkō carves out a refined, yet unpretentious space for long lunches, easy dinners, or celebratory drinks.

We found ourselves at this joint on a soft winter evening, the Johannesburg sky fading from coral to charcoal while we slipped into the warmly lit interior of this Mediterranean tapas and sushi spot. The restaurant immediately impressed with its polished energy — a space where textured glass and soft lighting met curated music and a clientele that seemed to know exactly what they came for.

Seated at a sleek corner table with a full view of the open kitchen and mixology bar, we were welcomed with something small but memorable: a courtesy shot of smoked tomato soup. Earthy, comforting, and full of unexpected depth, it set the tone for a meal that would favour balance over bravado. Our waiter, polite but never intrusive, explained that the idea at Ukkō is to savour — the flavours, the exquisite drinks, the moment.

We started with the classics. The rainbow roll arrived neatly assembled — eight clean pieces layered with salmon and avocado, the rice holding just the right touch of warmth. It was comfortingly familiar but well-executed, served with fresh ginger and soy that didn’t overwhelm. Alongside the sushi came a dish that turned heads as it was placed on our table — slow-roasted lamb riblets, resting on the plate like they had nowhere better to be. Charred at the edges but soft beneath, they were seasoned simply with lemon, salt and pepper. The flavour was honest — nothing cloaked or dressed up, just good meat treated with respect.

Between bites, we lingered over warm caffe lattes, served in thick glass cups that retained their heat and gave our conversation space to stretch out. It’s rare that a mid-meal coffee doesn’t feel like a disruption, but here it was more like a pause button we were grateful to have.

By the time the mains arrived, the restaurant had filled up. There was a steady thrum to the place — not loud, but certainly alive. The tomahawk steak arrived first, its French-trimmed bone curved dramatically on the board like an exclamation mark. Flame-grilled and confidently cooked, the beef carried its own bold story. We carved it easily, each bite charred and tender, with that unmistakable flavour of something both aged and grilled over fire.

The whole fish followed. It came with skin crisped and speckled golden, presented intact with a spritz of lemon and the gentle perfume of thyme and coriander. We peeled it apart gently, appreciating the olive oil sheen and flaking flesh, each bite tasting like it had travelled from the coast that morning. Then came the flame-grilled baby chicken — juicy, smoky, brushed lightly with peri-peri oil and enough lemon to keep things bright. It was a dish that could’ve felt heavy but somehow didn’t, grounded in balance and restraint.

The wine list was extensive, and though we’d opted for coffee earlier, we couldn’t help peeking at neighbouring tables where glasses of Stellenbosch reds and coastal sauvignons caught the light just right. Ukkō’s mixology bar seemed to draw in a well-heeled crowd too — not rowdy, just refreshingly sure of themselves.

We weren’t going to order dessert but something about the pacing of the meal encouraged us to stretch it a little longer. We were glad we did. The tiramisu was layered with mascarpone and savoiardi that had soaked in just enough coffee liqueur to stay on the right side of decadent. It arrived chilled, but not too cold, with each spoonful holding its shape before melting away. Just before we could call for the bill, a waiter arrived with a parting gift — complementary Italian kisses. Small scoops of vanilla ice cream wrapped in caramel shells, sweet and playful. It was a small gesture, but one that left a lasting impression.

The desserts selection at Ukkō is tempting. Recently, the restaurant introduced a standout new addition: the Crèmeux. This indulgent treat features rich Belgian couverture dark chocolate layered with a silky pistachio ganache, striking a perfect balance between deep cocoa intensity and nutty creaminess. It’s a refined, luxurious dessert that showcases both bold flavour and elegant presentation—sure to delight chocolate lovers and adventurous diners alike.

Ukkō strikes a rare balance — the kind that allows you to enjoy fine food without the air of formality that often follows it. The Mediterranean influence is felt in everything from the grilled proteins to the confidence in simplicity, while the sushi menu adds a layer of familiarity for those who want it. There’s a generosity to the place that’s hard to fake. You feel it in the welcome, in the way the waiter knows when to hover and when to disappear, in the dishes that arrive unpretentiously but are built with intention.

Located in a precinct that’s fast becoming a magnet for Johannesburg’s upwardly mobile diners, Ukkō holds its own with understated confidence. The traffic on Winnie Mandela Drive may still be relentless outside, but inside, there’s space to exhale, sip something slowly, and sink into flavours that carry you from the Aegean to Asia in a single sitting.