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REVIEW: From Beirut to the Bourse: Sadie’s soulful plates

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Sadie’s Bistro is the kind of place that makes you wish every city had a story to tell with its food. Nestled in the heart of Marshalltown, Johannesburg’s city centre, the bistro breathes new life into one of the city’s most historic buildings—a modernist structure that once housed the Johannesburg Stock Exchange during the 1960s and 70s. It’s a setting that feels weighty with memory, surrounded by century-old façades, art deco silhouettes, and the ghosts of the gold rush era. Yet, step inside and you’re greeted with a warm, inviting energy that immediately grounds you in the present.

We visited on a weekday, just as the restaurant marked its one-year anniversary. There was a quiet sense of pride in the air, a feeling mirrored in the dishes that began arriving at our table. Sadie’s is named after Chef Julian Ribeiro’s grandmother, Sadie Ribeiro—a woman known among her friends and family for her generous table and deep love for her Lebanese roots. Julian, once a name in advertising circles, swapped campaigns for cooktops, choosing to honour her memory with food that balances comfort with character. It’s not flashy food. It’s food that tells stories.

Our meal began with the smoked salmon benedict, a starter that somehow managed to feel both classic and clever. The salmon was delicately smoked, just enough to lend depth without overwhelming the cream cheese, which was smooth and mildly tangy. What took the dish to another level were the crispy capers—sharp, briny pops that pulled everything together. It was plated with elegance, but not in a way that begged for social media attention. Just a dish quietly doing its job well.

Next up was the grilled calamari, served in a lemon butter sauce that felt like a small celebration of restraint. The calamari itself was perfectly tender with just the right amount of char, while the sauce was rich but bright. We found ourselves chasing the last bits of it with fries, not out of hunger, but sheer enjoyment.

For mains, the T-bone caught our eye—and didn’t disappoint. Generously portioned and expertly grilled, it was served with savoury rice and pan-seared vegetables. The rice was deeply seasoned, not just a side but a dish in its own right, while the vegetables had a golden finish that suggested time well spent on the pan. It felt grounded, generous, and deeply satisfying.

But it was the platter for one that truly brought Sadie’s ethos to life. A medley of leg of lamb chop, BBQ chicken wings, pork ribs, grilled halloumi, zucchini fries, and a fresh salad—it was a meal that spoke to abundance and warmth. The lamb was tender, the ribs sticky and rich with just the right resistance, and the chicken wings carried a smoky sweetness that lingered long after the last bite. The zucchini fries were surprisingly addictive, offering a crisp bite without the oiliness that often plagues fried veg. Halloumi added its usual salty squeak, while the salad, lightly dressed, brought a needed counterpoint to all that indulgence.

Dessert arrived as the sun was just about to dip behind the skyline, casting golden shadows across the concrete and glass outside. We ordered the churros and the hot chocolate brownie, both of which were house-made and confidently executed. The churros came warm, coated in cinnamon sugar and served with hot dulce de leche that was unapologetically thick and sweet. They were light, crisp, and perfect for sharing, though we didn’t. The brownie, dense and dark, was topped with a soft cloud of Chantilly cream that cut the richness beautifully. It was the kind of dessert you find yourself thinking about later, even if you’re not a dessert person.

While the food is front and centre, Sadie’s is more than just a spot for good meals. They offer take-out for nearby office workers and residents, as well as catering, private chef services, and intimate functions. It’s clear that Chef Julian has built something not just for the foot traffic, but for the community—a space that honours both family and food with sincerity.

There’s something remarkable about a bistro that manages to be both modern and rooted, that draws from personal history without being overly sentimental. Sadie’s doesn’t try too hard. The charm comes naturally—from the staff who move about with a calm confidence, to the menu that feels considered rather than curated. In a city that can often feel transient and hurried, it’s comforting to find a restaurant that invites you to pause and savour.

As we left, the echoes of Marshalltown’s past loomed outside, but inside, Sadie’s continued to hum quietly with warmth and purpose. It’s not often that a meal tells you so much about a person, a family, and a place all at once. At Sadie’s Bistro, it does.

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