There’s something soul-soothing about leaving behind the buzz of coastal cities and heading inland, where time feels slower and flavours run deeper. KwaZulu-Natal (KZN) has long been loved for its beaches, but its Midlands region offers a completely different charm – a tapestry of rolling green hills, misty mornings, and winding country roads that lead to some of the most authentic farm-to-table experiences in the country. From family-run cheese farms to rustic eateries and vibrant farm stalls, this stretch between the coast and the heart of the province is a treasure trove for food lovers and curious travellers alike.
Starting from the coast, the drive inland already sets the tone for the journey ahead. Leaving behind the salty sea air of Durban, travellers can make their way towards Howick, a quaint town known for its waterfalls and historic significance. Before reaching the Midlands proper, it’s worth stopping at the Karkloof Farmers’ Market, open every Saturday morning. Locals and visitors gather here to stock up on organic produce, farm-fresh eggs, handmade breads, and even fermented drinks. The market buzzes with friendly chatter, live music, and the aroma of coffee and baked goods – it’s an ideal place to kick off a weekend of culinary exploration.
As you venture deeper into the Midlands Meander, a region famed for its art, craft, and foodie delights, the route becomes dotted with farm stalls and hidden gems that feel like they belong in storybooks. One such place is Piggly Wiggly, a popular stop just outside Lions River. This farm-style hub is more than just a farm stall – it’s a lifestyle destination. Think artisan coffee, preserves made on-site, boutique wine tastings, and a deli brimming with everything from biltong to local cheeses. The surrounding shops offer a range of handmade goods, from leatherwork to home décor, making it an easy place to while away a few hours.
Further along the Meander, near Nottingham Road, is the much-loved Blueberry Café. Perched on a hillside with sweeping views, it’s not only famous for its blueberry cheesecake but also for its playful menu and commitment to quality ingredients. Breakfast here is an event, with everything from French toast with berries to farmhouse classics served with free-range eggs and locally cured bacon. A few minutes down the road, you’ll find Nottingham Road Brewing Company, where you can sample craft beers made with Midlands water and plenty of character – definitely worth a visit for the hop-inclined.
If cheese is your weakness, then a visit to Indezi River Creamery is non-negotiable. Located near Mooi River, this small, family-run dairy specialises in handmade cheeses that range from creamy bries to tangy blues. They work closely with local farmers to ensure their milk is of the highest quality, and their cheeses are a favourite among many of the region’s chefs. Most days, visitors can pop into their small shop and pick up cheese to take home – or, better yet, to enjoy picnic-style with some crackers and wine under the shade of a tree.
Speaking of picnics, the Midlands is home to several estates that make picnicking feel like a luxury experience. Brahman Hills, for instance, offers curated picnic baskets filled with locally sourced delights, which you can enjoy overlooking their gardens or near the peaceful lake. Their on-site restaurant, 89 on Copper, is also a brilliant dinner spot, offering a refined yet hearty menu built around Midlands produce and seasonal flavours.
Further afield, near the Kamberg Valley, you’ll come across the family-owned Granny Mouse Country House. While best known for its cosy accommodation, the real magic is in their kitchens. Their Bistro and fine-dining Eaves restaurant both feature menus that showcase ingredients sourced from their own herb garden and surrounding farms. Think rich venison stews in winter and light, fresh garden salads in summer – all perfectly plated and thoughtfully presented.
No farm-to-table journey through KZN would be complete without a stop at Swissland Cheese. Nestled just outside of Balgowan, this goat dairy is a delight for families and foodies alike. You can sample their range of cheeses on site – try the chevin rolled in herbs or the firmer pecorino-style varieties – and meet the goats who help produce them. The setting is peaceful, the cheese is exceptional, and the experience is charmingly unpretentious.
The beauty of exploring this part of KwaZulu-Natal is not just in the food, but in the stories behind it. Every meal comes with a narrative – of family traditions, sustainable farming, or a deep respect for the land. Whether you’re grabbing a jar of local honey from a roadside stall or sitting down for a multi-course feast, you’re tapping into a region that celebrates real, honest food made with care.
From the coast to the Midlands, KZN offers a farm-to-table journey that’s as rich in flavour as it is in experience. For the traveller with a curious palate and a love for slow travel, it’s a route well worth savouring.