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Savouring the sands: The Kalahari’s unexpected food treasures

Savouring the sands: The Kalahari’s unexpected food treasures

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The Kalahari, with its sun-scorched sand dunes, sweeping grasslands and salt pans that stretch endlessly under a bright blue sky, may not strike most travellers as a foodie destination at first glance. Yet this seemingly harsh and arid environment hides a pantry of natural treasures, shaped by centuries of indigenous knowledge, resilience, and a deep respect for nature. In the Northern Cape, the heart of the South African Kalahari, flavour is born from extremes. From the rare and prized Kalahari truffle to rich cuts of gemsbok and springbok, the region offers a culinary experience that is as unexpected as it is unforgettable.

Kalahari cuisine begins with the land itself. The indigenous San and Khoi communities have lived off this semi-arid desert for generations, cultivating a unique food culture that respects sustainability and seasonality. While many modern chefs now explore the concept of terroir, the people of the Kalahari have long understood that food carries the flavour of the soil, climate and place. Take, for example, the famous Kalahari truffle, known locally as !nabba. This elusive fungus is harvested after early summer rains and only grows in certain parts of the red Kalahari sands. Unlike European truffles that grow underground with the help of pigs or dogs to sniff them out, !nabba grows just beneath the surface and is found by carefully combing the dunes. It has a mild, earthy flavour with a nutty undertone and is often pan-fried, sliced into salads, or used to add depth to wild game dishes.

Speaking of game, meat lovers will find their bliss in the Northern Cape. The region’s signature dishes are often centred around lean, free-range meats like gemsbok, kudu, and springbok. Gemsbok, in particular, is highly valued for its deep red meat, rich in flavour yet low in fat. It’s a staple on the braai, served as steaks or skilpadjies (liver wrapped in caul fat), and pairs beautifully with indigenous ingredients like wild sage or dried tsamma melon. A visit to Upington or Kakamas, for instance, might lead you to a family-run guesthouse or local eatery offering traditional bobotie with ground springbok, or a smoky gemsbok potjie slow-cooked under the stars.

Upington, as the largest town in the region, is a good place to start your culinary journey. Here, you’ll find eateries like BiLo’s Restaurant, where modern South African fare is crafted with local ingredients, and Desert Wolf Spur for a more casual bite. For a taste of local dried meat, or biltong, a stop at Upington Slaghuis is a must. Their gemsbok and springbok biltong are intensely flavoured, cured in dry desert air and seasoned with a blend of salt, coriander, and a touch of chilli.

Beyond meat, the Kalahari’s edible landscape includes lesser-known gems. The tsamma melon, for example, is a wild ancestor of the watermelon and thrives in dry, sandy soil. Traditionally used as a source of moisture by the San, it can also be turned into refreshing juice or jams. Then there’s the shea-like marula, whose fruit is both tangy and fragrant, used to make jams or fermented into local liquor. The region’s honey, often collected from wild bees, is another prized ingredient—thick, dark, and intensely floral. These wild flavours add depth and identity to local dishes, often showcased in cooking classes offered at guest lodges such as Kalahari Trails, located just outside the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park.

The remote town of Askham is another point of interest. The Kalahari Craft Beer and Food Festival, usually hosted here or nearby, is a celebration of local flavours with a modern twist. Artisanal producers gather to showcase their take on traditional ingredients, from rooibos-infused ales to venison burgers topped with !nabba truffle aioli. It’s the kind of event that brings together community, culture and cuisine in a very local, very laid-back setting.

Of course, no trip to the Northern Cape would be complete without exploring the wine-growing regions along the Orange River. While the Karoo and Cape Winelands often steal the spotlight, towns like Keimoes and Kanoneiland produce surprisingly crisp white wines and fruity Chenin Blancs. Many of these vineyards are small, family-run and offer tastings paired with homemade preserves, cheeses, and even dried fruit sourced from surrounding farms. A favourite stop is Die Mas van Kakamas, where you can sip on Muscat while watching the sun dip behind the vineyards.

What makes the food of the Kalahari so special is its authenticity. It’s not trying to mimic trends or impress with complexity. Instead, it offers real nourishment—meals rooted in heritage, prepared with intention, and inspired by one of the most unique ecosystems on earth. There’s something deeply humbling and enriching about enjoying a meal made with ingredients foraged or farmed under such challenging conditions. It connects the traveller not only to the land but to the people who have learned to thrive within it.

For those willing to venture off the beaten path, the Northern Cape rewards with stories told through flavour. Whether you’re sipping marula liquor under a starlit sky, biting into warm roosterkoek with farm-churned butter, or savouring the earthy richness of a gemsbok steak grilled to perfection, the Kalahari offers a taste of South Africa like no other.

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